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My choice is always “as much blue cheese as you can carry” and Joe’s delivers with creamy, rich dressing punctuated generously with chunks of real blue cheese. You can also order a wedge salad, Greek salad, Caesar salad and a Spinach salad. They’re all good, but along with the bread they’ll fill you up and you certainly don’t visit Joe’s to fill up on bread and salad. Joe’s Pasta House has none of those advantages, but somehow manages to serve a seafood bisque which transports me back to so many wonderful afternoons on the wharf at Gloucester, Massachusetts.
Family-friendly,
See where it ranks among my favorite soups in New Mexico here. It’s the type of dish which makes all your synapses fire as your taste buds try to discern the adventure of flavors going on in your mouth. The sauce is rich with tomatoes, basil, garlic and other spices. This is an excellent appetizer, a wonderful way to start a meal. Until the Cabrona virus shut down the world, stuffed eggplant was standard fare on the daily buffet. To offer his patrons more variety Joe removed the eggplant from his buffet and replaced it with another item.
Dinner,
Joe is a proponent of not simmering his sauces for hours on end as opposed to the school of chefs who employ marathon-long simmering sessions (which tend to render tomatoes very acidic). That’s one of the reasons Joe’s red sauce is much lighter in color. That means hormone- and antibiotic-free meats and to the greatest extent possible GMO (genetically modified organism) free pasta imported from Italy.
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What made our visit exceptional was the close attention that our server gave us. For once it was good not to hear "no rush" when it was time to settle the check and get on our way. Once a year, despite my protestations and whining, I agree to take my Kim to the Olive Garden. It’s a deal we have, albeit one that makes me feel like Faust in the Christopher Marlowe play. Faust, for the non-English majors among you, was a scholar who sells his soul to the devil in exchange for unlimited knowledge and worldly pleasures. In my case, the deal is a visit to Olive Garden once a year in exchange for all the strange and exotic restaurants I want to visit the rest of the year.
It means grass-fed beef, free-range chicken, humanely raised veal and sustainably-caught fish. Pastas and sauces are prepared in stainless steel pots, healthier vessels by far than their aluminum counterparts. Only non-hydrogenated oil is used and it’s changed out every day, the remnants given to owners of vegetable oil-powered vehicles. Unfortunately Rio Rancho’s solid waste infrastructure is currently incapable of providing the recycling capabilities to fully comprehend all of Joe’s needs, but the restaurant recycles as much as possible. For my Kim, who has long had a crush on Joe and his “dreamy blue eyes,” stepping into Joe’s Pasta House for the first time since the change in ownership was traumatic. She’s used to getting a warm hug from Joe every time we visit.
The highest ranked restaurant in this enumeration of exceptional eateries was Joe’s Pasta House. Among the 1,500 or so restaurants in the metropolitan area, none is as beloved by Yelpers as is Joe’s. With nearly 300 reviews (as of 26 May 2018), Joe’s has an average rating of 4.5 stars.
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Joe’s version of seafood stew is a wonderful balance of fresh seafood with perfectly prepared pasta served in a large boat…er, bowl. The seafood–shrimp, mussels, clams, scallops, lump crab and Atlantic salmon–are so fresh you might forget you’re in a landlocked state and not dockside. The seafood is served atop a linguini pasta in a tomato basil bullion which allows all ingredients to sing. A sweeter sauce or one more acerbic would not have gone so well with the delicate, delicious, briny seafood, but the tomato basil brings out the seafood’s natural flavors.
Popular with Tourists,
On April Fool’s Day in 1957, a British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) broadcast purported to show a family in Switzerland harvesting spaghetti from the family spaghetti tree. Spaghetti was relatively unknown back then in the United Kingdom so the BBC was deluged by viewers asking for advice on growing their own spaghetti tree. Decades later, CNN named this broadcast “the biggest hoax any reputable news establishment ever pulled.” For my Kim, spaghetti is no joking matter. Her favorite Italian dish is spaghetti with meat sauce, especially the way it’s prepared at Joe’s. She’s a sauce minimalist whereas her husband can bathe in the stuff. She reminds me that the only reason I don’t ever order it is that I lack the dexterity to wrap the pasta around my fork.
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Much as they might wish for it to happen, no restaurateur can make their restaurant THE hometown favorite. It happens organically and it happens only by the unanimous will and consent of the people. Similarly, it takes the acclamation of the dining public for a restaurant to become THE heartbeat of a community–where residents go to interact with one another in a convivial spirit of sharing a great meal.
The cultural anthropologist in me finds it both amusing and tragic that teeming masses congregate for pathetic pasta, mediocre marinara and boring bread sticks. It makes me long for a visit to Joe’s Pasta house in Rio Rancho. Porcine perfection can be found in the form of juicy French cut grilled pork chops in a Chianti mushroom sauce. Chianti is a full and rich red wine that couples well with the mushrooms to imbue the inch-thick chops with a complementary flavor that doesn’t detract from their native pork flavor in any way. In May, 2018 Yelp compiled its first ever Top 50 Places to Eat in Albuquerque.
While dense and coarse, the meatballs are mostly meat, not some filler. They’d be terrific by themselves, but the green chile spinach sauce elevates them to rarefied status…and that sauce. Extreme care must be taken to ensure you don’t fill up on bread, great as it is. You also have to be doubly cautious so as not to fill up on Pasta House appetizers, some of which arrive in profuse portions which might constitute an entire meal elsewhere. There’s absolutely no way you can leave the Pasta House hungry! That something different might be the poppy seed shrimp, ten (yes, 10) jumbo shrimp sautéed with bell peppers, red onions and black olives in a tangy poppy seed sauce.
Perusing the menu gave us the same euphoric sensation we always have at Joe’s, a realization that we’re about to enjoy another great meal. Tony, one of our favorite servers, ferried over a plate of Joe’s sliced, warm bread with the restaurant’s incomparable bruscetta. A few years ago, I met Joe and Kassie at their restaurant at the wee hour of six A.M.. While there are myriad chemical processes that occur when bread is baking in an oven, those processes are the furthest thing from your mind when aromas envelop you. Joe’s bread is legendary…and that bruscetta is the very best in New Mexico.
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